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THE MG BLOG: Now & Ink

What's the life of a Modern Gentleman all about? Find out here, as Jason Tesauro and his collaborators share their latest discoveries and epiphanies.

 

Filtering by Category: food

The Best Thing We Ate at Charleston Wine + Food

Kristel Poole

Whew! What a whirlwind trip! 

Jason and I returned from Charleston Wine + Food Festival late last night still dreaming of one incredible dish from the night before. We arrived at Cooper River Brewing Company for "Fowl Mouth," an upbeat event featuring all things winged-fowl, and checked in at our table with Virginia Wine Board and Barboursville Vineyards, clinking glasses with friends Rachel from Boxwood Winery and Pat from Early Mountain Vineyards. Dozens of tables were set up across the parking lot, and the tempting smell of barbecue smoke began to fill the air as acclaimed chefs began cooking their quail, duck, pheasant and turkey.

We walked from table to table, meeting chefs and discussing everything from bourbon to Virginia wine to Lambstock. We were being fed well and treated with the warm hospitality for which Charleston is known. We tasted pheasant boudin, bacon-wrapped quail, pickled chicken hearts, cold-pressed turkey, pistachio with foie gras, and barbecued duck with Vietnamese noodles, but one dish in particular stole the show, and now, we can't stop talking about it.

I picked up my plate featuring fried Manchester Farms quail tossed in Tennessee-style hot sauce over crusty Carolina gold rice sourdough with housemade buttermilk ranch and fermented green tomato, a play off the classic Tennessee hot chicken, and bit right in. My eyes widened, and as I looked up, I could see the excitement flicker in Jason's eyes, too. This was amazing; the flavors were perfectly balanced. The quail was juicy, the skin crispy, and the sauce fiery. The heat was offset by soft bread, creamy ranch, and tangy pickles. I gushed, "Jason, this is the best thing I've eaten all week." He agreed.

"It's from a catering company," he said.

"Stop," I replied. I couldn't believe it.

There's something especially inviting about a chef who displays absolute humility as you shower him with heartfelt praise of his work, and Executive Chef Todd Mazurek of Salthouse Catering is no exception. Chef Todd received his culinary degree from Johnson & Wales University and has worked in some of Charleston's best restaurants, so he knows flavor and technique like the back of his tong-wielding hand. Obviously passionate about his craft, we look forward to seeing him again soon – especially if he's cooking! 

Chef, if you want to come to Richmond and make us hot quail, we've got a bottle of Octagon with your name on it.

– Kristel Poole

Highlights From the Food World’s Most Game-Changing Festival | The New York Times

jason tesauro

 Rasmus Malmstrøm. The entrance to the fifth edition of Denmark’s MAD Symposium, which took place Aug. 28-29 in Copenhagen.

Rasmus Malmstrøm. The entrance to the fifth edition of Denmark’s MAD Symposium, which took place Aug. 28-29 in Copenhagen.

SEPTEMBER 12, 2016 | By JASON TESAURO

At the fifth MAD Symposium — Denmark’s annual culinary twist on the Butterfly Effect, where small acts lead to large outcomes — a young cook from India, Ashwami Manjrekar, landed a gig with Rosio Sanchez, the Mexican-American chef from Chicago who opened a now-famous taqueria in Torvehallerne. That two women from disparate cultures on opposite sides of the earth found common ground over tacos under a circus tent is just one example of how MAD Symposium is arguably the most impactful food movement around.

Founded by Noma restaurant’s chef/owner/visionary, René Redzepi, MAD (the Danish word for “food”) is a not-for-profit organization that aims to spread ideas, forge new relationships, discuss injustices and update – in real time – the global playbook for an ethical, sustainable food culture. This year, organizers pared the guest list from 1,500 applicants to a vital 350 catalysts from 43 countries who promised to engage, collaborate, expostulate, break bread — and break barriers.

From August 28-29, attendees were delivered by kanalrundfart (canal boat) to an undeveloped peninsula jutting between the Baltic Sea and Atlantic Ocean, to explore the MAD5 theme of Tomorrow’s Kitchen via two questions: What do we hope our kitchens will be like in the future? And what can we do today to make those dreams a reality? After hot debate, cold beer, laughs, tears and enough Norwegian mackerel to trigger a tent-wide omega-3 brain-boost, one truth emerged: The answer is not in the food, but in the people behind it. Barefoot in rolled-up pants, the DC-based chef/humanitarian José Andrés, one of this year’s keynote speakers, paced over pine straw laid inside the not-for-profit organization’s signature red circus tent — where he delivered a TED Talk–like sermon imploring cooks, restaurateurs, suppliers, food writers and tastemakers to “provide for others what you want for yourself.” Heads nodded and fingers snapped in united affirmation.

With nearly 100 different sessions running throughout the symposium, countless secondary topics – from millennial chefs and microbial terroir to alpha females and food waste – spurred important sidebars. Yet, the two big issues on MAD5’s main stage were unmistakable: the mental and physical health of industry insiders, and the importance of nurturing the food community’s next generation. “If you want to go fast, go alone,” Andrés said. “If you want to go far, go together.”

Continue reading...

Lambstock 2016

jason tesauro

What do you get when you blend a Southern revival and an episode of ‘Top Chef’ with a pinch of summer camp and prison break, all dry rubbed and left to cook on the spit? That would be Lambstock — the leave-no-trace camping trip for the farm-to-table set.
— The New York Times

Four years ago, I found myself knee-deep in the high grass of a sheep pasture within a mutton chop's throw of the Blue Ridge Parkway. After four days of finger-lickin love / lamb / fire / fun / passion / pork / coffee / 'cue / booze / bikes / tunes / tents / chefs / shenanigans, I was transformed. And hooked. 

This year, jonesing for bone marrow, I packed three tents, four children, five bikes and six cases of wine into the Wagon Queen Family Truckster for another adventure at Border Springs Farm's foodist fête, the 7th Annual Lambstock.

I first covered this affair for The New York Times,  but 2016 was pure indulgence in the beauty, fellowship and frenetic deliciousness that happens when chefs, somms, farmers, charmers, brewers, chewers, millers, distillers, growers, showers, foragers, photographers, butchers, cookers, cheesemongers, fishfryers, wineries, cideries, hip hop crooners, banjo tuners, barkeeps, RV peeps and hooligans get off the grid and onto the same frequency of share and share alike.

Shepherd Craig Rogers, known best for sustainably raising healthy, happy, loved and naturally-plumped lamb that ends up on the finest menus in America, is a true gentleman farmer. Each year, he and his team open up the gates to welcome anyone with one foot in the ethical food business and another foot in the business of feeding joy like a baker's starter.

Grounded in passion, craft and integrity that spreads person-to-person, region-by-region, tent-by-tent, invitees are drawn to the promise of personal and professional relationships built around the breaking of bread. Those who've sunk their teeth into Lambstock know that we the alumni are forevermore ambassadors for the soulfulness of food. How we gather and why we gather gives new meaning to word of mouth.

Check out the video above. Besides the soaring Blue Ridge via drone, pay attention to an astonishing time-lapse: 24 hours of Lambstock 2016. Note that the Chef's Pavilion is quiet for but a micro-second, because at Lambstock, someone's always hungry...and someone's always cooking. See you next year.


Lambstock 2016 in GIFs

Butterfly in the Blue Ridge.

The greatest chow line I have ever witnessed.

 

Clambake prepared by Harper's Table and Chef Beauter.

Cantastic Languedoc rosé from Queen of Wines, Durham, NC.

Lamb "frites" – fancy name for fried testicles and offal – in the Cowboy Cauldron.

Chef Vivian Howard of Chef & the Farm in Kinston, NC breaking it down for A Chef's Life.

Creekstone Farms flank steak prepared on the Cowboy Cauldron by  Chef John Fink of The Whole Beast.

Amazing Grace Street

jason tesauro

Channeling my inner Ginsberg and Caesar Flickerman whilst evoking Graham Chapman's suit (circa "Monty Python's The Meaning of Life"), I aimed to open the 5th Annual Elbys – with its heavenly "en Blanc" theme  – by composing a Sunday sermon that reflects how RVA's F&B scene is defining our city. These people move me ... the least I can do is try to move them right back.

Yes, it marinated for a season, but the ink only began to flow last week. And once it came, oh baby, it spilled like holy water. Late or no, I'm still grateful for every visit from the muse. 

And since I believe that objects are imbued with energy: a special shout to artist Michael Birch-Pierce and his students in the VCUarts Department of Fashion for turning a blank-slate white canvas into a glittering power suit. From the second I slipped it on, I felt transformed into a superhero emcee. Kudos as well to Mahri Jones of Parlor Salon, Hunter Rhoades of Richmond Balance and Jaylin Ramer of Space Cowboy Boots for coiffing, sculpting and cobbling me from head to abs to toe. Chefs have their sous ... these are my cats for hair, ass and shoes.

Listen to Jason deliver his sermon...

THE TEXT ...

Amazing Grace Street
    For the 5th Annual Elbys, a reading from the Howl-y Scripture

I saw the best chefs of my generation employed by madness, striving hysterical naked,
dragging themselves through the double shift at dawn looking for a bahn mi and Twix,

Oh wait. Before the sermon.
Let us pray.

Oh Mighty Spirit of Open Table, 
Blessed Deity behind the misspells, 
puns and malapropisms on blue and green kitchen tape
(I’m looking at you, Duck Conflict and Homey Mustard.)

Dear Higher Power who tempts us to split checks, 
modify the menu or hold tables for incomplete parties. 

Take us to a Heaven of fair Yelp Reviews, 
on-time produce deliveries and semi-sober wine reps. 

Lord of kimchi and tartare, gravlax and foie gras, 
let us pray that Croxton never runs out of oysters
or GMs
or plaid. 

We pray that Brittanny Anderson and Drew Thomasson
mentor a whole new generation in Michelin-star-quality
techniques of brûlée, fricassee and twerking.

Brothers and Sisters, Mamas and Papas, Chefs, Sous, 
Reps, Preps, All Peeps Front and Back of the house, 
Millers, Distillers, Makers, Bakers, Drink Shakers, 
Masters of Muddlers, Proofers of Crullers, 
Raisers of Pork, Pullers of Cork, 
Pushers of Brooms, Growers of Shrooms, 
we come together, an industry in communion. 

And like any kinfolk reunion, there’s always
some gnarly branches on that tree, 
and more than a few juicy fruits. 
And family tensions run hot. 
I don’t expect Jason and Travis
takin selfies on the same spot.

Can I get an RVAmen?

This year was a doozy. Not 100% free from haters, 
no-shows and pre-grated Parmesan with 8% saw dust
We bid godspeed and fare-thee-well to the departed: 
Estilo, Magpie, Mezzanine, Portrait House, Tastebuds, 
Dixie Donuts, Aziza’s, Coppola’s, Nora’s, Beauregard’s,  
Globehopper, Little Venice, Tiki Bob’s. 

Ciao. 

But those were just the lows in a year when the highs
were finger-lickin spicier than a bucket of Lee’s Famous thighs
I spent a day in the life with Dale Reitzer.
I spent a night on the pass with Joe Sparatta and Pete Wells.
I partied with Lee Gregory and Mark Lewis in a hot tub
with a busty bartender who could make even T Leggett’s bar-spoon twirl.
I smuggled wine and weed into Mel Oza’s kitchen
so that he could cook bitchin escargots
to cure the munchies after Fire, Flour & Fork.
I talked mysticism and knishes at Perly’s with David Peterson
while Derek Rowe told us about happy life with kids and no booze.
On a night I thought I’d get silly with Owen Lane, I bonded stilly with Tiffany
Who by the way had one of the funniest Facebook posts ever: 
Skeletor saying “Shutting the fuck up is gluten free. Add that to your diet.”

You don’t always take me seriously, 
but how many of you bought houses from my hot Realtor wife
I tell you this because the overlapping circle in all of this is simple: F&B.

Can I get an RVAmen?

UCI, Travel + Leisure, James Beard, Bo Bech
Daniel Radcliffe, National Geographic, Southern Living
rolled through town and you know what they remember:
    The food.
    This is church.
    And we are the congregation.
    Hand made, sweat toiled
    Hard cidered, soft boiled.

Brothers and sisters, there’s a hymn that comes to mind. 
Amazing Grace … Street
What does a great city look like when it starts to wake up?
When affordable places to start badass enterprises explode in areas that were once sketchier than dollar sushi?
You are powerful beyond the table you set.
You bring attention to our region.
You inspire people to imagine the beauty
of what’s possible beyond this plate.
This year, I want you to imagine worthiness as mantra:
Gratitude
Imagination
Wholesale, city-wide, bite-by-bite change.
Schools, parks, rapid transit, quality of life.

You are lifting Richmond from Capitol of How Bad it Was
to the Rebirthed Capitol of How to Evolve. 
You have stripped down Confederacy to fed 
(with a little racy) in there.

Can I get an RVAmen?

Omnipotent, All-Knowing Ruler of Suds, 
please protect all of the beer in Scott’s Addition
and all of the tasting rooms and cideries, meaderies, 
bakeries, Ginger juiceries, Stella’s groceries
inland fisheries and ukulele and didgeridoo tuneries, 

Holy Divine Maple & Pine Ramen Ruler, 
Heavenly Father and Mamma Zu and the four Saisons
Eternal God Head who taketh away this Jersey boy’s hoagie
but giveth unto him JKOGI, Perly’s pierogi, and our Gentlemen Rogue-y.

In our lifetime, we can only hope to achieve
what those 3 wise men hath conquered – 
Johnny, Jimmy and Jason … and Dale, 
the Four Apostles.

And God is my Dutch & Co-pilot
and while the innocent aim skyward, 
we, my friends, are Southbound
Lo, and when we reach that Rancho T in the road, 
we turn like Vagabonds with Owen’s tongs to darker Pastures
where the L’Opossum-bilities are infinite and on hellfire
in Le Petite Mort au Chocolat en Flambé.

Stroops, there it is.
We are Barrel Thiefs in the night
practicing the dark art of Curry Craft
as we danced with Amour and tasted fruit
from the forbidden Acacia tree, 
Naked as an Onion
with the scent of Autumn Olive and Manakintowne.

Castanea-llelujah!

Lord help us understand
how the hell is it packed at Maggiano's
when we could grab and go
The Dog & Pig
Show
us the way
to your love and suds, 
how can sinning be wrong
when the taps flow like paradise at Mekong

Blasphemy!
Then why did you send King David
to open The Cask for me?

Julia ain’t Biblical
but she’ll cry Lamentations
as Secco makes Exodus from Carytown
to The Fan where glory be
free of demons and shitty chains
as you, the anointed, 
stage pop-ups and make Richmond
the Korean jointed.

Make it raineth upon us
Rudy’s, Tomten, Victory, I say. 
For that is The Answer.

Because chefs may be Gods, but God is not a chef.
Because it he was, the Scripture would read…
And on the Seventh day, 
    he worked another goddamn double.

This may be the only time you go to church this year
because you’re the ones making brunch
for all the asshats who ask for
just yolks in their scramble
or no eggs but hollandaise is ok
and a side of ranch.

It is our nature
our destiny
our Heritage.

Say it with me.

RVAmen!